It's an umami trainwreck, with crab.

Minus the crab, you might have all of these ingredients in your house as we speak. The sauce is a stellar, all-star lineup of umami, including soy, Worcestershire, Parmesan and fish sauce with a damn fine bench lineup of crabmeat, butter, garlic and a pinch of sugar.

Admittedly, this recipe is an amalgamation of San Francisco's famous garlic noodles (which is often served with roasted crab), Vietnamese garlic noodles and a pinch of Italian carbonara in the form of an egg swirled in at the last minute. Like all of these, it almost cheats with its combination of singular delicious flavors into one supergroup, tossed with spaghetti.

Use a lot of fresh garlic, a good bit of butter and perfectly fresh crab.

 

serves 4

2 tbsp soy sauce

2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

2 tbsp fish sauce

2 tbsp sugar

chile flakes or dried chile to taste

1/2 cup butter

12-16 garlic cloves, sliced thinly or grated

12 ounces dry spaghetti

2 eggs, beaten

1/2 cup chives or green onion, thinly sliced

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 cups picked crabmeat 

Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta, but do not salt this water.

Combine the soy, Worcestershire, fish sauce, sugar and chile to taste in a small bowl.

Heat a large pan over medium heat and add the butter and garlic. Cook gently for a couple of minutes until cooked, fragrant and very lightly browned on the edges. Once it takes on a little color, add the soy mixture and remove from the heat.

Mix together the eggs, chives or green onion and Parmesan in the same small bowl that you used for the soy mixture.

Once the pasta water comes to the boil, add the spaghetti and cook until just tender.

Return the sauce to the burner and turn to medium-high. Using tongs, add the pasta to this pan, transferring a little pasta water along with it. Cook, stirring often, until the spaghetti has absorbed all the sauce and it is clinging to the noodles.

Remove the pasta from the heat and stir in the egg mixture. Stir in well, then return to the heat, stirring constantly, until the sauce is again thickened and clinging to the noodles, but not curdled. Add the crab meat and stir and toss until well combined. Serve immediately.

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