This cream-style chowder is rich with potatoes, bacon, crab stock and dairy, then enlivened by fresh lemon zest, herbs and hot sauce.

Use crab stock, combination shellfish stock or fish stock as the base, along with half and half. If you want to fully embrace crab hedonism, go with delicious heavy cream instead of half and half. This strong foundation is slightly thickened with a roux made from the rendered bacon fat and a little flour. I find that it's a perfect thickness, especially once the potatoes are tender and they've provided some textural and starchy silkiness. 

When this simple stew is complete, season it well with pepper (a very good use for a healthy dose of freshly ground black pepper) and add the crabmeat, lemon zest and herbs. Adding crab at the end ensures it doesn't fall apart and holds some of its shape. I had some non-egg-bearing female crabs in the traps and decided to keep a couple; their orange roe was added to the pot. 

Hot sauce, served at the table, provides the final balance of heat and acidity. Serve this with a crisp, well-chilled white wine.

Serves 4

8 ounces smoked bacon, diced

1 medium onion, diced 

1 stalk celery, diced

6 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only or 1/4 tsp dried thyme

2 tbsp all-purpose flour

3 cups crab or fish stock

2 cups half and half

3 medium potatoes, diced

salt and black pepper

2 cups fresh crabmeat (from about 8 blue crabs)

10 chives, thinly sliced (pale yellow leaves from the heart of celery would also be very good)

Zest of 1 lemon

Hot sauce, to taste

Render the bacon in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook for a few minutes until tender. Stir in the thyme leaves and the flour and cook, stirring often, for another minute. Pour in 1 cup of the stock and stir until smooth, incorporated and thickened, then add the remaining stock and half and half and stir to combine. Turn the heat down to a gentle simmer.

Add the potatoes and season with salt. Cook gently until the potatoes are very tender, about 25-30 minutes. Season again with salt and plenty of black pepper.

Ladle the soup into bowls and top with crabmeat, chives (or celery leaves) and the lemon zest. Serve with hot sauce and, if desired, toasted bread or crackers.