The veal of pickles.

This is an ongoing recipe that could take all summer long if you're growing cucumbers, or you can knock it all out at once if you can buy small cucumbers.

Every morning, I'll check the cucumber plants, leaving a larger cucumber to grow to full size (or if one stays hidden like they tend to do) and harvesting smaller cucumbers at around 2 inches long specifically for the cornichon jar. There's a little bowl of salt in the kitchen that I'll drop the baby cucumber into for a couple of hours, which slightly dessicates the cucumber and prepares it to be rehydrated in the flavored vinegar.

The pickling liquid is an undiluted vinegar solution that classically needs tarragon (I use mint marigold since tarragon doesn't do well here) and onion as flavorings, though I like the addition of sliced horseradish and some hot peppers, as well. This liquid is kept in the refrigerator, and the cucumbers are added as ready. They'll turn army green after a day or so, and keep forever. These tart pickles are extremely good with terrines and liver mousse, or used in recipes for mayonnaise-based sauces like tartar sauce.

2 cups white wine vinegar

10 sprigs tarragon or Mexican mint marigold

2-3 very small onions, or a few slices of onion

¼ horseradish trimmings or slices, optional

1-3 small dried hot peppers, crushed, optional

Kosher salt

2” young cucumbers

Combine the vinegar, herbs, onion, horseradish and chile in a tall glass jar. Refrigerate for a couple of days.

As the cucumber vines produce, cull small, firm cucumbers daily. Toss the freshly picked cucumbers in a couple pinches of salt and allow to sit at room temperature for 2 hours. 

Brush most of the salt from the cucumber and drop into the vinegar jar. Keep refrigerated. The cornichons will be ready in a week and will keep for over a year if stored in the refrigerator.